Sterling Silver Turquoise Necklace

That's Clever! : Episode HCLVR-202 -- More Projects »
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Project by Willa Wirth from Portland, Maine.
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Willa Wirth was fascinated by the luminescence of the extensive jewelry collection in her mother's jewelry boxes. After earning a double major in studio art and music performance, Willa eventually made her way to a few community silversmith classes. She combined her sculpting skills with her love of jewelry. These days her specialty is working with granulated silver to make unique and stylish pendants as the focal point of her necklaces.

Materials:

sterling silver round wire in a variety of gauges
beaded wire
silver solder in wire form
silver rivet material
liquid flux
solder block/fire bricks
round and flat needle nose pliers
jeweler’s tweezers
flush cutters (snips)
#2 file
soldering clamp
doughnut-shaped turquoise stone
flat hammer
ring mandrel
acetylene B torch
jeweler’s hammer block/or anvil
flex shaft drill, drill press
container with water
crock pot with pickle solution (1:10 ratio of 1 part acid to 10 parts water)
polishing machine with sanding wheel and buffing fibers
red rouge and white diamond buffing compound
hand polishing cloths
punch - steel stick with point on one end
rawhide hammer
flat hammer
safety glasses

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Figure A
Steps:

Top Silver Circle

1. Wind sterling silver wire around a metal ring mandrel to create a round shape (figure A).

2. Remove the wire from the mandrel and snip at the seam to form one ring. Hold the ends with two pair of flat nose pliers so that the ends meet flush together.

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Figure B
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Figure C
3. Place the ring in tweezers and secure the tweezers in a soldering clamp. Apply liquid flux to the seam, then with tweezers drop a piece of solder on the seam. Using the acetylene torch, heat with a circular motion, keeping the flame 1/4 inch away from the piece (figure B). The solder chip will melt and fill the seam. Dunk the ring in water.

4. Place the silver circle on the mandrel and hammer it with a rawhide hammer to re-form the circle shape.

5. Place the circle on an anvil. Hammer to desired width and flatten the ring with a flat hammer (figure C).

6. Place the flat circle in a pickle to remove fire scale.

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Figure D
7. Polish the circle using a polishing machine. Apply red rouge compound to the sanding wheel to clean and polish. Apply white diamond compound to the buffing fibers for the finishing polish. Rotate the piece so it doesn't become hot to the touch (figure D).

8. Punch 3 punctures with a metal punch around the ring at intervals of 10, 2 and 6 o'clock on the circle.

9. Drill the holes in the ring at the puncture locations.

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Figure E
10. Put silver rivet material in each hole, creating a ring for the chain to hang from the back side of the rivet. This is made by bending the back side of the wire and curling with needle nose pliers and cutting where the shape will form a nice loop (figure E).
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