2. Cut the bike frame: Crank assembly: (This is the part of the bike with the pedals and chain.) - Cut large pipes 1 inch up from the lugs and cut small pipes 1/2 inch from the lug (figure B).
Headset Assembly: - Remove "wheel forks" from the sides of the steering shaft leaving the shaft full length.
Bike Frame: - Cut the bike frame six inches from the headset.
- Stamp the frame ends flat inline with the vertical axis.
3. Grind the edges of the now flattened frame tubes to receive rudder sheet metal. Drill holes in the center of the flattened tabs for a 3/16-inch pop rivet.
4. Disassemble the crank assembly and the steering column.
5. Place all kinetic components into a small tub (with a lid) of solvent and soak. Clean grease and rust off the bearings and threaded parts, etc. with a wire brush. Note: Wear rubber gloves, respirator and goggles when using solvents. Adequate ventilation is required.
6. De-bur and grind all edges smooth.
7. Cut to dimension all metal parts:
Windmill body:
- One 3/8" x 1" flat bar 5-1/2" long to hold "motor" in line with windmill frame
- One 1/2" x 1" C-channel to mount flat bar at right angle to windmill frame
- Two 1-inch copper plumbing end caps
Tail section:
- Two 5/16-inch diameter steel rod to 32-inch lengths to become rudder spins.
- Four 22-gauge copper tabs 1-1/4" x 3-1/4" to hold rudder into frame.
- One 20" x 30", 24-gauge mild steel sheet metal to become moon face.
Mounting pole:
- Two 1" x 1/8" x 3" flat stock, drill two 1/4 inch diameter holes 1/2 inch from ends on center
- One 1/2" x 5' black steel pipe
- One 1/2-inch course thread nut for top of mount pole
Propeller/hub
- Three 22-gauge stainless steel 13" x 6" cut to shape of propeller blades
- One 1/4-inch diameter steel rod 13 inches long to become nosecone corkscrew
8. Grind all edges and prep for welding.