Double Cloth Vest

Double cloth properties

• Two separate fabrics joined by a binder thread.
• Different than double-faced fabric.
• Comes in various weights.
• May have two different fabric weaves/colors on sides.
• No wrong side.
• Can pull apart layers to use singularly.
• Comes in primarily coating and suiting weights.
• Can be expensive, two layers of high quality fabric.
• Will last for years, durable.

Materials:

Over & Under pattern #320
double cloth fabric
suede fabric for trim
sewing notions: thread, buttons, scissors, etc.

1. Cut out pieces.

2. Baste around each piece in a measurement equal to two times the seam allowances, plus 1/8 to 1/4 inch.

3. Split the cloth to the basted line, cutting the binder threads between the layers . The basted line assures that the cloth will not split too far (figure A).

4. Sew the outside seam allowances, right sides together, keeping the inside layers clear of the needle (figure B).

5. Clip and press the outside seam allowances.

6. Press the inside layers over the seam allowances. Press and topstitch or slipstitch by hand into place (figure C).

Inserting
Try this for inserting a pattern piece or piping between two layers:

1. Split the fabric ot the basting line.

2. Sew both seam allowances of the inserted pattern piece or piping to the outside seam allowance of the body pattern piece, keeping the inside seam allowance free of the needle.

3. Turn and press into place.

4. Tune the edge of the remaining seam allowance under to cover the raw edges, and topstitch or slipstich in place by hand.

Hemming and finishing
1. Split the fabric at the basting line.

2. Turn both edges in toward each other, matching the edge of the fabric with the basting line.

3. Press.

4. Topstitch or slipstitch by hand.

5. When the garment is complete, remove the basting lines.