By Susan Khalje
DIY--Do It Yourself Network
I recently taught a couture techniques class in Stoneham, Mass., at the Needle Arts Institute, and I thought I'd share with you some of the techniques we practiced.
We started with a narrow machine hem, which involves three rows of machine stitching — the first to establish the seam line, the second through two layers of fabric after folding and pressing on the first stitching line, the third after trimming off the seam allowance and folding a final time.
The students loved it and were thrilled that it could accommodate quite a curve. I find it more reliable than using the sewing machine's edge turner, which to me is difficult to control, especially over seam allowances.
Another technique we had great fun with was a hand-picked zipper applied with a version of the back stitch — the prick stitch. We decided to embellish it, and I'm always amazed at the variations my students come up with.
I'd given the students little pastel beads, but many students brought their own beads. One of my favorite applications was a solid line of long gold bugle beads interspersed with pearls — it looked like a very elegant "SOS"!
We also wrapped black silk organza seams in light-colored silk organza — the seam allowance really does disappear. The silk organza works as a very effective camouflage. We didn't take the time to dye the covering fabric, but if we had — with tea, coffee or a commercial dye to match flesh tones — the seam allowance would have been completely camouflaged.
We also did a little work with lace — my favorite — making an invisible seam. I think the students were amazed at how flexible this seemingly difficult and fragile fabric can be.
First we established which edge would be on top — I call it the "leading edge." We trimmed it nicely, overlapped it over the other piece of lace, hand-stitched it in place using a fell stitch, then trimmed away, from underneath, the excess lace. It really was pretty difficult to find where the pieces had been joined.
Another favorite technique is covering snaps with a small scrap of fabric — silk crepe de chine works best. It's got enough grip to it not to be too slippery (a consideration when sewing such a small item), and it's tightly woven enough not to fray. A little drawstring pouch is created for each half of the snap; then the thread is pulled up tight to enclose the snap.
Tiny back stitches along the inside perimeter secure the fabric. The excess fabric is trimmed off. The snap is sewn on, with whatever fabric is left tucked out of sight under the snap. I always leave the threads long, and double them and coat them with beeswax, and use them to sew the snap on to the garment.
You can imagine we had a busy weekend adding new techniques to our sewing repertoire.
(Susan Khalje is the author of Bridal Couture - Fine Sewing Techniques for Wedding Gowns and Evening Wear (Krause Publications ). Contact her at skhalje@aol.com or Box 51 Long Green, MD 21092. For more information, visit www.SusanKhalje.com or www.DIYnet.com.)
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