How to Install a Whirlpool Bathtub

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A whirlpool tub can make bath time much more relaxing.
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Figure A
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Figure B
Installing a whirlpool tub requires a lot of know-how. You'll need high-level electrical, plumbing and carpentry skills. You may want to do some of the work yourself and leave other tasks to professionals. On a scale of one to ten, with ten being the most difficult, this project rates about eight.

The mechanism that controls the tub is a pump that recirculates the water (figure A). PVC pipe carries water around the tub.

The tub also has a diverter, which controls whether the water comes from the jets or the shower.

The fixtures don't come installed; you'll have to install them yourself. Follow manufacturer's directions to determine where they go.

The installation requires a lot of copper tubing. Measure the amount of pipe needed, based on the manufacturer's instructions, and cut the pipe to length with a pipe cutter. Dry-fit the pipes using copper fittings (figure B).

Materials:
pipe cutter
solder kit, including torch and lead-free solder
wire nuts
circuit tester
hammer
galvanized nails
drill, with drill bits and driver bits
reciprocating saw
circular saw
measuring tape
teflon tape
pipe wrench
PVC cement
crowbar
2"x6" lumber
2"x4" lumber
sheet-metal shims
level
electrical cable
copper tubing and fittings
whirlpool tub
safety glasses

Steps:

Installing the Tub
  1. Solder, or "sweat," the copper tubing in place around the tub.

  2. Build a knee wall to support a deck around the perimeter of the tub. The tub itself rests on the floor, not the knee wall. Be sure to include an access panel so that you can service the tub as needed.

  3. You may need to notch the interior sides of the knee wall to accommodate the tubing for the tub.

  4. Screw the knee wall to the wall studs.
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Figure C
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Figure D
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Figure E
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Figure F
  • Build decking out of 2"x6" boards (figure C).

  • Cut holes in the floor for the water lines and drain (figure D).

  • A cast-iron whirlpool tub weighs about 600 pounds, so you'll need help to lift it into place. Be careful not to damage the tubing or fittings.

  • Install sheet-metal shims to level the tub. Raise the tub with a crowbar, using a 2"x4" as a fulcrum (figure E).

  • Connect the main water lines by sweating them in place (figure F).

  • Drop the trip-lever assembly through the appropriate hole, and secure the lever with screws. You may want to have a plumber connect the drain to the trap and main drain line.
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    Figure G
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    Figure H
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    Figure I
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    Figure J
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    Figure K
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    Figure L
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    Figure M
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    Figure N
    Installing the Pump and Plumbing
    1. Connect the pump to your electrical system, using standard electrical connections. The pump should be on a circuit that uses a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI).

    2. Hook up the high-pressure hose for the showerhead to the diverter. Thread the other end up through the hole in the side of the tub (figure G). Hook the shower hose to the end of the high-pressure hose (figure H). You can install the showerhead after you purge the lines to remove any sediment.

    3. Install the diverter valve by dropping the cartridge into place (figure I ) and tightening it securely. Set the brass cowling and decorative sleeve in place (figure J), and put the combination cover/knob on top (figure K ).

    4. Turn on the water, and check for leaks.

    5. Attach the front knee wall (figure L) by screwing it to the wall studs on the ends. Leave room between the bottom of the tub flange and the top of the wall for any tile or filler materials.

    6. Attach the showerhead hand-tight to the hose (figure M).

      Attach the faucet. For a seawall faucet, which sends water through several outlets along a wide band of metal, insert the O-ring nozzle into the supply hole (figure N ), and tighten the anchor screws. Attach the cover.

    7. Install any additional accent pieces on the fixtures.