Have you ever noticed the pipes rattling when you shut off the water in your house ? If so, that means you have what's known as a water hammer. The water in your house is kept at about 60 pounds per square inch (psi), and when it suddenly stops flowing , it creates a shock wave that results in noisy pipes.
One way of fixing the problem is by doing the obvious: wrap some insulation (a towel, an old shirt, etc.) around the pipes that are rattling. Sometimes that's easier said than done, though, because the pipes might be behind a wall or ceiling where you can't reach them.
In most newer homes, the plumbing under the sinks includes an air chamber made of a vertical pipe that extends several inches above the shutoff valves. The air chamber cushions against the jolt that normally occurs when the water flow suddenly stops.
If you know your plumbing system includes air chambers but you're still having problems with water hammering, it probably means your air chambers have filled with water. To correct this problem, simply turn your water off at the main shutoff valve , open all of your indoor and outdoor faucets, and let the water drain out. When you open the main valve, the water will bypass the air chambers leaving them full of air.
If you can't wrap anything around the pipes, or if your plumbing system doesn't include air chambers, you'll need to install one or more. The project involves some soldering, but don't worry. It's easier than you might think.
Materials:
copper T-fitting, sized to match your plumbing
12" length of copper pipe (the air chamber), about 1/2" larger than your existing plumbing
copper cap to close off the air chamber
coupler the same diameter as the air chamber pipe
coupler the same diameter as your existing plumbing
reducer fitting, to connect the air chamber to the T-fitting
short piece of copper pipe the same diameter as your existing plumbing
propane torch kit, including flux paste and lead-free solder
steel wool
two adjustable wrenches
mini pipe cutter
work gloves
safety glasses
Steps:
- First, you need to determine which way the T-fitting should face. If your supply pipes come from the wall, you'll need to point the base of the "T" upward. If the pipes come from the floor, the base of the "T" should point toward you.
- Now that you know how the T-fitting will be positioned, you can go ahead and assemble the air chamber.
- Clean off the ends of the air chamber pipe with steel wool. Clean both the inside and the outside of the pipe.
- Apply flux paste to the surfaces to be joined (figure A)--the inside surface of the coupler and the outside surface of the pipe. The flux paste will help pull the solder into the joint when it's heated.
- Slide the coupler onto the pipe.
- Light your propane torch and heat the coupler (not the pipe itself). After about 20 or 30 seconds, touch a piece of lead-free solder to the joint. When the solder begins melting quickly, push about an inch of solder into the front and back of the joint (figure B). This procedure is known as sweating.
- Sweat the remaining pieces of the air chamber together. The coupler is connected to a reducer, then another coupler and a short pipe; you may need to use another coupler to connect the short pipe to the T-fitting. Last, sweat a copper cap onto the end of the air chamber pipe.
- Shut off the main water supply to your house. Then open the faucet where you'll be working. Be sure to open any upstairs faucets as well.
- Disconnect the supply line from the valve. Then remove the valve from the pipe ; you may need to use a pipe cutter.
- Clean off the end of the pipe and attach the T-fitting and air chamber assembly . If you're sweating the assembly onto the supply pipe, place a cookie sheet behind the pipe so that the torch won't damage your wall.
- Lastly, attach the valve to the T-fitting and reconnect the supply line.
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