Dining Room Expansion

A dining room gets a touch of class with a columned entryway and built-in bookshelves. Try more high-speed projects with host Steve Watson from Don't Sweat It.

Don't Sweat It : Episode HDSWT-311 -- More Projects »
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Before: The transition between the kitchen and dining area didn't help the sense of space for either.
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After: A lighter and and more distinctive look was achieved by opening up the space and installing decorative shelves and columns.
The Thyne family's home needs a lot of work, but Steve Watson and the Don't Sweat It crew are there to help. The biggest project is the removal of the wall between the living and dining room and installation of some bookshelves. In other projects, they install shutters on the windows and a retractable ironing board in the closet.

Below is a list of materials and tools used for this project, as well as a summary of the basic steps as featured in this Don't Sweat It project.

Materials and tools:

2x3 lumber (8-foot lengths; 10)
sheet 3/4" birch ply (5 sheets)
edge banding (2 rolls)
primer (1 gallon)
paint (1 gallon)
table saw
power miter box
reciprocating saw
air compressor with hoses
finish nailer
speed square
chalk line
level
measuring tape
pencil
safety glasses

Steps:

Important: Turn off the power. We'll be removing electrical plugs, so before we begin demolition, we first make sure there's no power going to the outlets. To do this, we find the power supplying the kitchen and dining room plugs that are affected, and turn it off at the main breaker panel.

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Figure A
Measure and mark the wall. We'll be cutting out the wall from counter height (34-1/2 inches) to the bottom of the existing header (about 81 inches). We mark a level line at these measurements, then mark a plumb line 47 inches from each wall. On one side, we cut the wall. On the other side, it'll end up in the existing doorway.

Demolition. Cut thru the drywall using a reciprocating saw, and remove the drywall (figure A). Next, cut thru the studs and remove them. Make sure to remove the drywall first, so you don't cut thru any wires or pipes.

Bookcases. We'll be building the bookcases 48 inches wide and 34-1/2 inches tall. Build the case 10 inches deep, so when we put it against the existing knee-wall, we can cap it with a 16 inch piece of lumber.

Install the bookcases. Install the bookcases on each side of the opening. Cap the tops and ends of the cases with 16-inch rips of plywood to cover the top of the bookcase and the cut top of the wall. Do the same on the ends.

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Figure B
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Figure C
Build out the header. You now want to frame out the header using 2x3's and plywood. Make the header the same width as the bookcase unit, and make sure they are level with each other, since the columns need to fit between. Make sure the 2x3 frame is attached to the ceiling joists and the wall studs. Secure the frame using the framing nailer or 3-inch drywall screws.

Columns, shelves and paint . With the frame secured, the columns and shelves can be painted and installed. We cut, primed and painted the columns and shelving outdoors (figure B), then allowed the paint to dry before installing those elements.

Install molding. With the basic structure in place, the molding was installed using a brad nailer (figure C).